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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.