Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
